![]() If you are looking for a assisted locking device for sports climbing, I highly recommend the ATC Pilot. It is highly likely that it will replace my Grigri for daily use. Overall, I am exceedingly happy with this device. Very light tension has to be kept on the brake end to keep the climber in the same spot. Not a deal breaker by any means, just something to be aware of. If my 45kg partner just sits down on the rope without force, it would slip at around 3mm per second if all tension was removed from the brake strand. There is a tiny bit of slippage with lighter climbers during a static hang. ![]() Even with light to no tension on the brake strand. Lastly, the device does lock off very effectively during a fall. The pilot is also smaller/lighter than I expected after handling the Smart devices. Tested with skinny ovals, burly round HMS Biners, old steel ones and modern hot forget Biners. Unlike the Mammut devices, the type of carabiner seems to have very little effect on performance, so it's a lot less finicky. The sweet spot for effective control of lowering speed is very wide and predictable. ![]() It also improves on the Grigri 2 a little and massively improves on the Smart when it comes to lowering. The Pilot requires the lightest of upward pressure and is much smoother. The Mammut would require a fair amount of pressure to pay out quickly, & even then it had a bit too much friction to my liking. Keep it upright for slow feeding, and lightly catch he thumb loop for fast pay-outs, and you are all set. When I say handle properly, I don't mean anything technical either. It locks up instantly on all diameters tested (9.5, 9.8 & 10.2) and really inspires enough confidence in its abilities to hand to even the noob-est of belayers, yet is smooth and predictable enough when handled properly to easily chuck out loads of slack on demand and still belay safely. The ATC pilot improves on both of these devices more than enough to justify picking it up. The Mammut Smart did a decent job as well, but it just had too much friction to my liking and tended to snag when you least expect it. My only gripe with it was you had to be very aware of your hand positioning then paying out slack quickly to a leader, otherwise it is an awesome device. The Grigri 2 used to be my gold standard as it did what I needed very well. The Pilot is shaping up to be my new favorite device for Sport and single rope lead belay. I have owned or tested the original BD ATC, ATC guide, Wild country Pro guide light, Singing Rock Shuttle, Mammut Smart & Alpine, and both Grigri 1 & 2. Was honestly skeptical about the excellent reviews the ATC Pilot got upon release. I'll start off by saying I am very picky when it comes to belay devices.
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